Trekking

Eve of Trip

Nothing is open in Cusco besides small retailers and restaurants as it is election day. However, I have finally become confident enough in my Spanish to venture into restarants off the tourist trail. Everything seems organized for the trek.

Day 1

Picked up at my hotel at 445. Slept poorly the night before for fear of oversleeping. Hardly any hot water in shower. Arrive 3 bumpy hours later in Mollaparta. Have breakfast with 3 Germans (Benedikt, Rafeala, Max) and a Swiss German (Andy) who will be my trekmates. Our leader (or ¨fuhrer¨ as the Germans call him) calls himself Renato. Finish breakfast, and discover that my ¨stomach¨ is not feeling well. Oh boy, this might be a long trip.

One hour into the relatively easy hike, and I am very sick. Soroche (altitude sickness) and yesterday´s polla a la brassa have left me in bad shape. I can barely make it 50 meters without stopping to catch my breath or suppress the desire to throw up, etc. Group has to go on ahead of me. I wait for the horsemen to take my pack, but can´t keep up with them either. Get a little lost in the Peruvian bush...izquierda o derecha? Mumble to some locals in bad spanish about a group that maybe past. Almost fall asleep while resting. Chest feels like I am breathing through a coffee straw. Struggle for three hours before the horseman comes back and picks me up with a pack horse for lunch. All I can stomach is a small apple and a helf a bowl of soup (sopas are quite good here in Peru). After lunch is much more of the same, can barely move at the camp site. Renato has to escort me down to base camp, but his conversation shortens the agony. Camp has no baños.

Altitude (in meters)
Starting: 2800
Ending: 3700
Highest: 3900

Distance: 25 kms

Day 2

Stomach issues not much better, but the vomit reflex has calmed when exhausted. Drinking lots of coca tea, not much help. Halfway through the morning hike the skies open up. My pants are soaked because my rain pants are with my bag and I gave my poncho to Andy, who brought no rain gear. Soroche is marginally better, I can hike slowly for 15 minute intervals. Andy is sick now, too. And wet. After lunch, Renato politely tells me I need to keep up. The Pass is grueling. The good news is that I feel so bad that I don´t notice my muscles hurting. Salkantay mountain is snowcapped and beautiful. Still hardly any appetite. Finish the day at another ¨capsite¨(read: field) but at least I keep up in the afternoon. Camp is snug between two snocapped peaks and I am awestruck by it in the morning.

Altitude (in meters)
Starting: 3700
Ending: 3500
Highest: 4600 (the Pass)

Distance: 28 kms

Day 3

Much easier day, all downhill. Scenery rapidly turns from mountain to jungle. I not only keep up, but lead for much of the day! Soroche is under control with the descent. Stomach is much better. Beautiful valleys full of rivers roaring with glacial runoff. Moutainfolk in colorful clothes who speak Spanish as a second language frequntly pass us in the other direction. Finally can enjoy the food. Spend the night in a basecamp with running water and cold beer for sale (!). Also start to get to know the Germans as I can finally hike and talk at the same time. Andy is hurting badly, and Max´s bum knee is hell on downhills.

Altitude (in meters)
Starting: 3500
Ending: 2200
Highest: 3500

Distance: 16 kms

Day 4

Actually hike an Inca Trail. The traditional Inca Trail is the path taken into Machu Picchu by the commoners of Inca times. There is a separate path that is partially restored that leads to MP. Pretty amazing uphill trek on stones laid centuries ago. Get to know Jack, a San Francisco resident who is hiking the same trail as us. His friend Walter had a case of soroche and is at hospital. At the top of the mountain, we lose the Inca Trail because it is not yet fully restored to MP. Alternate trail takes us to Inca ruins with our first cross-canyon view of MP. Finish hiking for the day and take a train to Aguas Caliente, where we get real beds and hot showers. Happy Thanksgiving to me.

Altitude (in meters)
Starting: 2200
Ending: 3200
Highest: 2200

Distance: 16 kms

Day 5

Get up at 4 for uphill hike to MP. Rafaela and I are almost pulling each other up the mountain. Only a 1 hour hike, but a tough start to the day. Watch sunrise hit Waynapicchu while llamas lounge nearby. Clear, with clouds nearby. It is as stunning as I imagined. Benedikt, Andy and I climb Waynapicchu. I lose them and meet Jack and Walter at the top after a one hour straight uphill 400 meter climb. It is Jack´s birthday, and they are enjoying a bottle of port with spectacular view of MP. Cheers, Jack. Climb back to MP with the Americans and the rain is falling and clouds have covered WP. Lucky us. The rain is falling so hard that I splurge to take the bus back to Aquas Caliente, to prepare for our final jounrey back to Cusco. On the train and bus back, the Germans and I agree that we need a proper night out. Discos in Cusco until 4:15. That´s a 24 day, friends.

And it was worth every bit of it.